This A4 size full colour publication by Partisan Press is the fourth in this series of “how to” guides for budding terrain makers. Each of these chapters originally appeared as articles in wargames magazines, but have been reproduced here in more length, with extra detail and photographs to help guide you through the terrain making process. After a brief introduction, the author begins with a chapter on how to refurbish your tired terrain boards, something we all need to do at some time or other, before moving on to describe how to make trees out of bottle brushes, gabions and defence works from place mats, stone and wattle fence lines, roads and hay stacks. Larger projects include redoubts, Normandy buildings for WWII and Mock Tudor buildings for earlier conflicts, along with burned out buildings. The final chapters include guidance on making hills, cabbage fields and foliage clumps for denser jungle style terrain. Each chapter is written in a step-by-step style and is well illustrated with photographs of the terrain during production, so that the reader is left in no doubt about the techniques being used. All of the terrain is made from items that are easy to obtain from a hobby shop or from things you might find lying around the house, like place mats and foam packaging. Equally, the techniques described are easy to achieve and should be well within the means of even the most unaccomplished terrain maker. The author, Diane Sutherland, has many years experience of making wargames terrain and her clear, relaxed style of writing makes each of these chapters a clear and easy read. It is worth pointing out that not all of her ideas will be to everyone’s taste. For example, I found the paper roses she uses for her cabbage field to be

Being the splendid people we are here at Wargames Illustrated we don’t mind giving a heads up to another, new, wargaming magazine (especially when it’s so different to our own). Blaster is a collaboration between five bright young(ish) games designers who have come together to produce what they are calling a “wargaming anthology”. Joseph McCullough (Rangers of Shadow Deep), Ash Barker (Last Days), Mike Hutchinson (Gaslands), Sean Sutter (Relicblade) and Joseph McGuire (This Is Not A Test) are all riding the wave of a new generation of wargaming that merge fantasy and sci-fi tabletop figure action with elements of Role Playing games. Blaster is an impressive collection of articles written about their respective games which add new scenarios, rules and other additional material. Weighing in at 82 pages, Blaster provides you with a lot of reading material, with each contributor supplying one article for his respective system. When I say “weighing in”, I should say “downloading in” because Blaster is ostensibly a PDF publication, downloadable from DriveThruRPG at a price of $19.99. Although DriveThruRPG do actually offer a Print-on-Demand service with a “softcover, premium color book” costing $24.99. With plenty to get your teeth into for fans of all the games mentioned above, Blaster offers quality, well written content with a stylish modern look. Good luck to um I say (… the young upstarts!) Find out more at https://www.drivethrurpg.com/product/315136/BLASTER-Volume-1?src=hottest

Ultimately the Kriegsmarine was too small to match Germany’s ambitions plans during World War Two, yet it managed to produce the most famous ship of the war; The Bismarck. Despite only having one, eight-day, combat operation, it is fitting that this ship is one of the early releases for Warlord Games’ Victory at Sea. Like the ships in the Victory at Sea Starter Set this model consists of a main body piece with (love um or hate um) base, with details like the guns and masts provided separately. The main ship is well cast in resin, with crisp and correct details. For such a small scale Warlord has done a grand job there. The additional pieces, made in the bendable ‘Warlord Resin’, consist of four main turrets, six smaller turrets, the bridge, antenna stack, and cranes. These pieces are a little too soft for my tastes – making removal of the mould lines a bit of a pain for someone with as little patient as me. Once everything is fitted together it looks like the grand ship it briefly was and one of my favourite models thus far in the VaS ship range.

Ultimately the Kriegsmarine was too small to match Germany’s ambitions plans during World War Two, yet it managed to produce the most famous ship of the war; The Bismarck. Despite only having one, eight-day, combat operation, it is fitting that this ship is one of the early releases for Warlord Games’ Victory at Sea. Like the ships in the Victory at Sea Starter Set this model consists of a main body piece with (love um or hate um) base, with details like the guns and masts provided separately. The main ship is well cast in resin, with crisp and correct details. For such a small scale Warlord has done a grand job there. The additional pieces, made in the bendable ‘Warlord Resin’, consist of four main turrets, six smaller turrets, the bridge, antenna stack, and cranes. These pieces are a little too soft for my tastes – making removal of the mould lines a bit of a pain for someone with as little patient as me. Once everything is fitted together it looks like the grand ship it briefly was and one of my favourite models thus far in the VaS ship range. If you are seeing this message after signing in, PLEASE PRESS THE BROWSER REFRESH BUTTON This page is only viewable by WIPrime members, If you are a Prime member please log in, If you are not a WIPrime member – you should be! Find out more here.

“Dangerous Dames” is a new line of miniatures from Pulp Figures of Canada, featuring, as the name suggests, the ladies of Pulp. The first pack of “Rugged Adventurersses” (PHP 20) consists of a pilot, with pistol drawn and flying jacket over one shoulder, a beret wearing resistance fighter with an HMG and three generic adventurers with pistols who would not look out of place as the lead in any of the “Indiana Jones” movies. This pack would be ideal if your game involves dynamic archaeology in Egypt, South America or some distant corner of the world. The next pack, titled, “The Museum of Natural History Ladies Exploration Society” (PHP 21) continues this theme, with the ladies once more kitted out for foreign climes. The first three miniatures of the “Daughters of the Empire” pack (PHP 22) would be your choice if you are looking for Darkest Africa miniatures, outfitted as they are in a variety of big hats, shorts and high powered rifles. The fourth miniature wears a scots bonnet, scarf and fur topped boots and would be at home in any winter climate or Scots Glenn. The fifth miniature is of a turban-wearing warrior from India, who is sculpted firing a pistol off to her left whilst wielding a sword in her right hand. Travelling further afield are the “Daughters of the East,” (PCS 20) two of whom are depicted in martial arts poses with two others dressed more in Geisha style, one unarmed and one with a pistol in hand. The final figure in this pack is a priest or monk who wears an elaborate headdress and cloak. The next pack are the “Gangland Gals” (PGJ 22) which pretty much sums them up, being armed as they are with pistols, shotguns and tommy guns. This pack would fit nicely into any 1920’s prohibition style game, although I also thought these miniatures would work well in a Call of Cthulhu or similar horror game as well. – PGJ22 Speaking of horror games, “The Evil High Priestess” pack (PWM 20)is a gift for any 7TV games or Pulp Cultist scenarios, as it contains not only the high priestess, but also an attendant carrying a knife on a pillow, the sacrificial altar and two “victims,” one male and one female, ripe for rescue. There is some great detail in this pack, from the little pentangles on the altar cloth to the symbols on the High Priestesses headdress, that make it well worth a look. The last pack of miniatures depicts “Crash Callahan” and her faithful dog (PHP 25). The pack contains Callahan on her motorcycle, with her dog hilariously modelled in the sidecar, ears flapping, as well as dismounted versions of

Lucid Eye Publications offer several eclectic figures range, all with intriguing names like ‘Savage Core’ or ‘Blades and Souls’. One such is the ‘Toons’ range. Perfectly fitting their title, the Toons are squat but perfectly formed miniatures, designed to look like cartoon characters. The Toons range is sub-divided into: Toon Realms, Supers and Terrors. This latest Toon release is from the later Toon Terrors category. With more than a slight nod to H.P. Lovecraft’s Call of Cthulhu mythos, the Toon Terrors are weird creatures from another world, or possibly another dimension, described by Lucid Eye as ‘A Cartoon themed range of Cosmic Terrors’. In line with other Lucid Eye ranges, we are given more background information by being told the Toon Terrors inhabit the town and environs of “Old Port” – “What terrors await in the spooky streets, the dank docks and the gruelling graveyards after dark?” Clearly theses lovingly designed and well-cast figures await somewhere in Old Port – at a cost of £6 for a pack of four or £3.50 for the single Shallow King figure (see below).

Victory at Sea is the new naval wargame from Warlord Games. Following a tried and tested formula Warlord have released a boxed ‘Starter Set’ which contains everything you need to get going. Victory at Sea: Battle for the Pacific focuses on the World War Two sea war between the US and Japanese fleets. It’s seems likely that other Starter Sets will be released for other theatres. Let’s lift the robust lid and see what we have inside. The below is a transcript of the video unboxing, for those who prefer to read than watch.   Lots of bubblewrap to begin with! This wrapping contains 15 resin ships in total. Pulling out the first pack at random we have both the American and Japanese Destroyers. You will note that the resin ships come cast to their bases with separate guns and masts etc. These later pieces are made from ‘Warlord Resin’  – that’s the flexible plasticy-resin stuff regularly used by Warlord these days. Taking a closer look at one of the ships we can see there is some fine detail on this 1:1800 scale ‘Fletcher-class Destroyer’ – including a wake around the vessel. The size of the bases on all of these models has caused a great deal of discussion on the forums, with some people really being turned off by their chucky nature. However they do paint up really nicely and during a game it is crucial to be able to see the name or class of the ship, so it would be difficult for them to be any smaller and accommodate the name plate. From the American Fletcher-class we move to the Japanese Fubuki-class Destroyers. Naval experts can study these images and make their own minds up about the detail (I won’t embarrass myself by trying), but any comments

Victory at Sea is the new naval wargame from Warlord Games. Following a tried and tested formula Warlord have released a boxed ‘Starter Set’ which contains everything you need to get going. Victory at Sea: Battle for the Pacific focuses on the World War Two sea war between the US and Japanese fleets. It’s seems likely that other Starter Sets will be released for other theatres. Let’s lift the robust lid and see what we have inside. The below is a transcript of the video unboxing, for those who prefer to read than watch.   Lots of bubblewrap to begin with! This wrapping contains 15 resin ships in total. Pulling out the first pack at random we have both the American and Japanese Destroyers. You will note that the resin ships come cast to their bases with separate guns and masts etc. These later pieces are made from ‘Warlord Resin’  – that’s the flexible plasticy-resin stuff regularly used by Warlord these days. Taking a closer look at one of the ships we can see there is some fine detail on this 1:1800 scale ‘Fletcher-class Destroyer’ – including a wake around the vessel. The size of the bases on all of these models has caused a great deal of discussion on the forums, with some people really being turned off by their chucky nature. However they do paint up really nicely and during a game it is crucial to be able to see the name or class of the ship, so it would be difficult for them to be any smaller and accommodate the name plate. From the American Fletcher-class we move to the Japanese Fubuki-class Destroyers. Naval experts can study these images and make their own minds up about the detail (I won’t embarrass myself by trying), but any comments

Artizan Designs have released a second/alternative set of figures for their World War Two Command Post. This diorama set is a combined effort between Artizan, Sarissa and Renedra. To accompany the MDF ruined farmhouse Artzan originally provided a set of five 28mm figures representing: two senior officers, one medic, one radio operator and one motorcycle dispatch rider with bike. This new set of figures consists of: the same motorcycle dispatch rider with bike, a medic, two British Airborne officers and a radio operator – along with his radio. These last three are all wearing the archetypal British Para red/maroon (when painted!) beret. As well as the building, Sarissa’s contribution to the set also includes a bicycle, table and chairs and gardening tools. Whilst Renedra provide the sandbags, which forms a partial perimeter around the building. The whole piece can be mounted on a jagged base which comes with the building. Whilst not essential kit, this Command Post would be a welcome addition to any World War Two, Europe, wargames table. Reminiscent of early Airfix ‘play sets’ it is bursting with character, and as the photos hopefully show, looks great when painted up and finished with tuffs and gravel. The set of five British Airborne models for £15 makes for a welcome alternative to the five British infantry models already available. The complete set with figures, building and other accessories retails at £30 and is available  from North Star Military Figures.

Diana Sutherland coined the name “The Wargames Widow” several years ago when she discovered she had a desire and skill for creating model terrain and buildings to populate her husband’s wargames tables (Note: Hubby Jon is affectionately referred to as “the Wargamer” in her articles). Since then she has gone on to author several books on the subject and has been featured in various wargames magazines. Following a successful stint in Wi Bite-size she now brings her talents to Primetime, where she will be contributing exclusive model making articles on a regular basis. This week The Wargames Widow backs away from the tabletop and tells us how to create a backdrop – a very useful piece of kit when taking photos, displaying at conventions or simply adding extra punch to your tabletop. “Very nice picture of your new soldiers, dear, but I don’t really think your coffee mug and scruffy old jumper need to be in shot,” I said for the umpteenth time, little realising the enormous bear trap the wargamer had set and both of my feet were in it. “You’re good at trompe-l’œil aren’t you?” He replied, not immediately revealing that I had no idea what he was talking about, but I had painted some very passable bunches of fruit on a cupboard door in the past and I was beginning to realise what was in store. “I beg your pardon,” I continued with the charade. “A back drop would be nice, just enough to block out the background. I’d only need about eight foot.”  He gave me the usual hang-dog look and I fell for it once again. It did sound like a job to rival the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Painting all those clouds, hills and trees was not going to be easy, so there had to be an alternative. Some of the best pictures I’ve ever taken using long exposure to get depth of field have been ruined by a wargamer walking past in the background – a blur of movement that has to be cropped out. Worse still is getting the exact camera angle you want to frame the ideal shot only to find that an untidy mountain of books or boxes of terrain are visible. The term trompe-l’œil is an arty way of describing a background to stick behind your soldiers and terrain to give the optical illusion that the landscape continues into the distance. In architecture it is called the forced perspective. What you are creating on the backdrop might look 3D, but in face it is a fairly flat background (although my version is a hybrid with some genuinely 3D elements). If you are arty then you might consider painting